Even the most devoted cat lover can admit—litter box issues are one of the less glamorous parts of feline companionship. But when your cat suddenly stops using the litter box, it’s more than an inconvenience—it’s a sign that something is off. Whether you're dealing with occasional accidents, persistent problems, or just trying to prevent them altogether, understanding litter box behavior is key to a cleaner, happier home.
In this post, we’re tackling the most common litter box problems, why they happen, and—most importantly—how to fix them.
Why Do Litter Box Problems Happen?
Cats are naturally clean animals, and litter box avoidance is almost always caused by an underlying issue. Here are the most common culprits:
- Medical issues like urinary tract infections, constipation, or arthritis
- Stress and anxiety, often due to changes in the home
- Litter box preferences, including type, cleanliness, and location
- Territorial behavior, especially in multi-cat households
- Improper litter training or early removal from the mother
Getting to the root of the problem is the first—and most important—step.
1. Rule Out Medical Issues First
Before changing anything else, make sure your cat isn’t sick. Sudden litter box avoidance, straining to urinate, blood in the urine, or crying while using the box are red flags. A trip to the vet can rule out urinary tract infections, bladder stones, kidney disease, or other health concerns.
Older cats may also struggle with arthritis, making it painful to climb into tall-sided boxes or walk across the house to reach one.
2. Keep It Clean—Really Clean
Cats have strong opinions about cleanliness. If the box is dirty, smelly, or full, your cat might take their business elsewhere.
Tips for a clean litter box:
- Scoop waste at least once a day (more if you have multiple cats)
- Fully replace litter weekly (or more often with non-clumping varieties)
- Wash the litter box with unscented soap and water weekly
- Avoid strong disinfectants or air fresheners that may offend your cat’s nose
If you wouldn't want to use it barefoot, your cat probably doesn't want to use it at all.
3. Consider the Box Itself
Not all litter boxes are created equal—and not every cat likes the same style.
Think about:
- Size: The box should be at least 1.5 times the length of your cat
- Depth: Low-sided boxes are easier for seniors or kittens; high-sided boxes help with scatter
- Covered vs. uncovered: Some cats like privacy, others feel trapped
- Type of litter: Clumping? Non-clumping? Scented? Unscented? Your cat has a preference
- Automatic boxes: Some cats love them; others find them terrifying
If you’ve changed boxes or litter recently, that may be the cause of the problem.
4. Location, Location, Location
Where you place the litter box matters just as much as what it looks like.
Best practices:
- Avoid noisy, high-traffic, or hard-to-reach areas
- Don’t place it next to food or water bowls
- Keep it away from appliances that might startle your cat (like washers or furnaces)
- Provide easy access—especially for kittens, seniors, or cats with mobility issues
In multi-level homes, place one box on each floor. And always remember: if your cat has to go on a journey to find the box, they may just opt for the carpet instead.
5. One Box Per Cat—Plus One
The golden rule: one litter box per cat, plus one extra. So if you have two cats, you should have at least three boxes.
This helps prevent territorial disputes, reduces crowding, and gives each cat a sense of security. In multi-cat households, some cats may refuse to use a box that’s been used by another cat—especially if there’s tension.
6. Reduce Stress and Environmental Changes
Cats are creatures of habit, and stress can easily trigger litter box issues. Moving, new pets, renovations, or even a new piece of furniture can throw them off.
Help your cat adjust by:
- Keeping routines predictable (feeding, play, etc.)
- Using feline pheromone diffusers (like Feliway)
- Providing plenty of vertical space and hiding spots
- Offering extra playtime and enrichment
In cases of major anxiety or unresolved behavior problems, a vet or feline behaviorist can help.
7. Retraining and Positive Reinforcement
If your cat has developed a habit of going outside the box, you may need to retrain them gently.
Try this:
- Keep them confined to a small area (like a bathroom) with food, water, and a clean litter box
- Gradually increase their access to the rest of the house as they consistently use the box
- Never punish accidents—clean them thoroughly with an enzymatic cleaner and move on
Reward correct use with praise, treats, or petting. Most cats respond best to positive reinforcement.
8. Cleaning Up Accidents the Right Way
Cats will often return to the scene of the crime if the smell remains. Regular cleaners don’t cut it—use enzymatic cleaners to fully break down urine and feces odors.
Avoid using ammonia-based cleaners, as ammonia smells similar to urine and can encourage repeat offenses.
When to Seek Professional Help
If you’ve ruled out medical problems, tried all the above, and your cat is still refusing to use the box, it’s time to call in the pros. A veterinary behaviorist can help uncover more complex issues and provide a plan tailored to your cat.
Don’t wait too long—early intervention gives you the best chance of success.
Final Thoughts: Your Cat Isn’t Mad at You
It’s easy to get frustrated when your cat starts peeing on the bed or pooping in the hallway. But remember: your cat isn’t acting out of spite. They’re trying to tell you something.
By staying patient, observant, and responsive, you can get to the root of the problem and restore peace (and cleanliness) to your home. And in the end, both you and your cat will be happier for it.
