At cat shows, the head sets the standard for the body in a physical sense. Many judges spend more time studying the head of the cat than any other part of the body. While the points allotted to the rest of the cat should certainly be considered, there can be no argument that the head is of utmost importance.
The largest part of the head is the brain. The brain is located in the cranial cavity and is an enlarged and highly modified continuation of the spinal cord. The nervous system begins and ends here. The brain is divided into two egg-shaped hemispheres whose surfaces are marked by folds which are both thick and numerous. The hemispheres make up the greatest part of the developed brain, and the brain itself is held by the cranial cavity, which is designed to cushion and protect the brain. The rear wall of this compartment is formed by the occiptal bone, whose lower section is perforated by an opening that is almost circular. This opening is for the spinal cord.
Now the brain would be almost useless if it couldn't be kept informed of everything that happens in the body. This is where the cranial nerves come in. There are twelve pairs of cranial nerves. These of these -- optic, olfactory, and auditory -- are there purely to interpret the special sense of sight, scent, and sound. Five of the pairs -- oculomotor, abducens, hypoglossal, trochlear, and spinal accessory -- are for motor function. The remaining four -- trigeminal, facial, glosso-pharyngeal, and vagus -- are for both sensory and motor functions.
The head of the cat is the seat of most of the major functions of the body. Air intake, food intake, excretory abilities and many other functions are seated here. Though some of these processes are carried out in depth in other areas of the body (such as digestion), they are started in the head. For example, the head produces some digestive enzymes in the salivary glands, and so digestion begins in the mouth.
The head, by way of the pituitary gland (the principle control gland in the body), also influences the endocrine system. Almost a dozen separate function are controlled by hormones manufactured, released, or stored by the pituitary gland. Some of these many functions include growth and even the onset of estrus in female cats.
As the head is solely responsible for acquiring the oxygen and food the body needs, the head should never be ignored during your study of the cat. The brain does so much for the body, but it itself exists on the most simple of chemicals produced in the body. The brain, and the head, asks for very little in return for supplying essential life to the body.
Welcome to Ultimate Cat—your go-to source for all things feline! From cat care tips and breed guides to quirky behavior insights and adorable stories, this blog celebrates cats in all their whiskered glory. Whether you’re a first-time cat parent or a lifelong feline fanatic, you’ll find helpful info, fun facts, and plenty of purr-worthy content here.
Monday, August 13, 2012
The Anatomy of a Cat: The Cat's Head and Brain
Monday, July 23, 2012
The Circulatory System of the Cat: Red Blood Cells
A cat's heart beats 110 to 140 times per minute, sending blood rushing through the body in a mere 11 seconds. And though the circulatory system has many purposes, none is as important as sending oxygen throughout the body. And this is accomplished through the most numerous cell is the cat's body -- the red blood cell.
Red blood cells are so numerous in the cat that I'm not even going to bother typing out the numbers. I don't like seeing that many 0s in a row. But there are a lot and they only live for two to six weeks before they must be replaced. Thankfully, the cat's body is constantly making new red blood cells. This starts when tissue, anticipating a shortage of oxygen, sends out a hormone (erthropoietin) through the bloodstream and to the bone marrow in red blood cell construction sites. The hormone signals primitive cells to begin to grow.
The primitive cells develop into rubriblasts, which are sort of like adolescent red blood cells. Each of these rubriblasts divides into two separate cells, both of which continue dividing. Eventually, these two red blood cells (abbreviated to RBCs) become 16. The RBCs are composed mainly of water and hemoglobin. Each hemoglobin molecule contains four iron atoms. This allows for the transportation of over 1 billion molecules of oxygen throughout the cat's body.
The cells continue to grow until hemoglobin accounts for 95% of the dry weight of the red blood cell. This takes about three days (out of a six-day RBC production process). At this point, the cell ejects its nucleus in an act of self-sterilization. This leaves the cell free of all distractions. The cell can now work, and work it does. In fact, RBCs work themselves to death as they carry oxygen to the various organs of the body.
Even the shape of the red blood cell is important. It looks a little like an unperofrated doughnut and it is very flexible. So flexible that an RBC can squeeze through the smallest capillaries to deliver fresh oxygen and take away toxic carbon dioxide.
Without the all-important red blood cell, the cat would not be able to function. It is not an exaggeration to say that the red blood cell is the single most important cell in the circulatory system of the cat.
Red blood cells are so numerous in the cat that I'm not even going to bother typing out the numbers. I don't like seeing that many 0s in a row. But there are a lot and they only live for two to six weeks before they must be replaced. Thankfully, the cat's body is constantly making new red blood cells. This starts when tissue, anticipating a shortage of oxygen, sends out a hormone (erthropoietin) through the bloodstream and to the bone marrow in red blood cell construction sites. The hormone signals primitive cells to begin to grow.
The primitive cells develop into rubriblasts, which are sort of like adolescent red blood cells. Each of these rubriblasts divides into two separate cells, both of which continue dividing. Eventually, these two red blood cells (abbreviated to RBCs) become 16. The RBCs are composed mainly of water and hemoglobin. Each hemoglobin molecule contains four iron atoms. This allows for the transportation of over 1 billion molecules of oxygen throughout the cat's body.
The cells continue to grow until hemoglobin accounts for 95% of the dry weight of the red blood cell. This takes about three days (out of a six-day RBC production process). At this point, the cell ejects its nucleus in an act of self-sterilization. This leaves the cell free of all distractions. The cell can now work, and work it does. In fact, RBCs work themselves to death as they carry oxygen to the various organs of the body.
Even the shape of the red blood cell is important. It looks a little like an unperofrated doughnut and it is very flexible. So flexible that an RBC can squeeze through the smallest capillaries to deliver fresh oxygen and take away toxic carbon dioxide.
Without the all-important red blood cell, the cat would not be able to function. It is not an exaggeration to say that the red blood cell is the single most important cell in the circulatory system of the cat.
Monday, July 16, 2012
The Circulatory System of the Cat
The circulatory system of the cat is comprised of the heart, a network of arteries and veins, and the spleen (which serves as a blood reservoir). A cat's heart rate, beating from 110 to 140 times a minute, is almost twice the normal heart rate of a human. The cat's body contains half a pint of blood, and this blood is circulated through the body once every 11 seconds. The blood, which is initially blue, goes through the heart to the lungs where it changes color, becoming crimson. The iron atoms in the blood discharge their carbon dioxide and grab some oxygen, which has been freshly inhaled through the lungs.
With the pulmonary part of its journey complete, the blood launches itself on a path through the body. It moves into the aorta and then into the smaller arteries that filter throughout the entire body. The blood slows slightly as it enters even the even smaller arterioles which regulate blood flow to the tissues of the body.
By the time the blood reaches the metarterioles (the conduits between arterioles and capillaries), the blood is moving at its slowest pace. The blood is now a purplish red after being stripped of most of its oxygen. The blood exits the capillaries through venules (little tiny veins) and begins its journey back to the heart. All this takes only 11 seconds.
The bloodstream is important, and not only because it allows for the exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide throughout the body. The bloodstream is also responsible for the creation of the clots that patch up tears, control osmotic pressure, and adjust the cat's thermostat when the cat is either too warm or too cold by moving heat to other areas of the body. Excess heat is expelled from the body also thanks to the bloodstream. Blood is even responsible for shivering and the warming of the body. The bloodstream defends the cat against disease, helps with digestion after meals, and even helps the cat catch his breath after exertion. In other words, the circulatory system of the cat is perhaps one of the most important systems of all, and not just because it circulates blood.
With the pulmonary part of its journey complete, the blood launches itself on a path through the body. It moves into the aorta and then into the smaller arteries that filter throughout the entire body. The blood slows slightly as it enters even the even smaller arterioles which regulate blood flow to the tissues of the body.
By the time the blood reaches the metarterioles (the conduits between arterioles and capillaries), the blood is moving at its slowest pace. The blood is now a purplish red after being stripped of most of its oxygen. The blood exits the capillaries through venules (little tiny veins) and begins its journey back to the heart. All this takes only 11 seconds.
The bloodstream is important, and not only because it allows for the exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide throughout the body. The bloodstream is also responsible for the creation of the clots that patch up tears, control osmotic pressure, and adjust the cat's thermostat when the cat is either too warm or too cold by moving heat to other areas of the body. Excess heat is expelled from the body also thanks to the bloodstream. Blood is even responsible for shivering and the warming of the body. The bloodstream defends the cat against disease, helps with digestion after meals, and even helps the cat catch his breath after exertion. In other words, the circulatory system of the cat is perhaps one of the most important systems of all, and not just because it circulates blood.
Monday, July 2, 2012
The Musculoskeletal System: The Skeleton of the Cat
The complex feline skeleton is composed of 244 separate bones. These bones together with cartilage (the connective tissues that bear weight) form the skeletal system of the cat.
The bones can be classified into three broad categories based upon their shape: long, flat, or irregular. If you think about it, you can probably classify most of the bones yourself simply by thinking abou their shape. The bones in the legs, for example, are long bones. These include the radius, ulna, tibia, and fibula. Flat bones can be found if you look at the scapula, skull, or face. Irregular bones are those that doesn't fit in the other categories and include bones such as the metatarsals and metacarpals.
Things get a little more complicated than that, however, because in additional to have three distinct shapes, the bones of the cat also can come in three varieties of ossification: intramembranous, endochondral, and heterotopic. Heterotopic bones occur after birth, usually under disease conditions, and are formed where you wouldn't normally find bone. These formations can be harmless little extra bits of bone or they can be dangerously close to vital organs. In the last case, they would have to be removed.
Endochondral ossification is the process of bone groth in an area previously occupied by cartilage. The cartilage is slowly replaced by bone. Intramembranous ossification is the development of bone under or with in a connective-tissue membrane.
So why is this important? Because most of the bones in the body are formed using the last two processes. The flat bones of the skull are created through intramembranous ossification while the bones at the base of the skull and in the face and trunk are a combination of intramembrous and endochondral ossification. Bone mass, by which I mean the compact bone of the shafts of the long and flat bones, is formed intramembranously. However, bones grow in length through the endochondral process.
What this all means is that the conformation of the cat is solely determined by the relative prominence of each type of bone growth. Which type of bone growth is prominant is usually dependent on the breed. For example, cats which are lean and lithe, such as the Siamese, have more endochondral ossification. Stockier cats such as the British Shorthair have more intramembranous ossification.
The bones can be classified into three broad categories based upon their shape: long, flat, or irregular. If you think about it, you can probably classify most of the bones yourself simply by thinking abou their shape. The bones in the legs, for example, are long bones. These include the radius, ulna, tibia, and fibula. Flat bones can be found if you look at the scapula, skull, or face. Irregular bones are those that doesn't fit in the other categories and include bones such as the metatarsals and metacarpals.
Things get a little more complicated than that, however, because in additional to have three distinct shapes, the bones of the cat also can come in three varieties of ossification: intramembranous, endochondral, and heterotopic. Heterotopic bones occur after birth, usually under disease conditions, and are formed where you wouldn't normally find bone. These formations can be harmless little extra bits of bone or they can be dangerously close to vital organs. In the last case, they would have to be removed.
Endochondral ossification is the process of bone groth in an area previously occupied by cartilage. The cartilage is slowly replaced by bone. Intramembranous ossification is the development of bone under or with in a connective-tissue membrane.
So why is this important? Because most of the bones in the body are formed using the last two processes. The flat bones of the skull are created through intramembranous ossification while the bones at the base of the skull and in the face and trunk are a combination of intramembrous and endochondral ossification. Bone mass, by which I mean the compact bone of the shafts of the long and flat bones, is formed intramembranously. However, bones grow in length through the endochondral process.
What this all means is that the conformation of the cat is solely determined by the relative prominence of each type of bone growth. Which type of bone growth is prominant is usually dependent on the breed. For example, cats which are lean and lithe, such as the Siamese, have more endochondral ossification. Stockier cats such as the British Shorthair have more intramembranous ossification.
Monday, June 25, 2012
Tips for Recognizing Asthma in Cats
Most of us know someone with asthma. A friend, family or neighbor may suffer from it, or we may be cursed with asthma ourselves. But most of us never think that our cats may have asthma. The truth is, cats can and do suffer from asthma, but because they can't tell us, most of them suffer through it, never really getting the treatment they need.
So what is asthma? Basically, asthma is a serious lung condition associated with airway obstruction caused by a sudden narrowing of the bronchial tubes. It's known as many things when referring to cats, such as Feline Allergic Asthma, Feline Lower Airway Disease, Feline Allergic Bronchitis, or Feline Eosinophilic Disease. All of these things are the same thing: asthma. There are certain signs that may indicate that your cat has asthma. If you notice any of the following, you should talk to your veterinarian at the earliest possible opportunity.
Increased Breath Rate: Cats suffering from asthma may be prone to episodes of increased respiratory rate. If you notice your cat breathing faster than normal every once in a while, and its not connected to increased physical activity, you may have a cat with asthma.
Trouble Breathing: Not all cats suffering from asthma will have an increased breath rate. Some of them will simply seem to have to work harder once in a while in order to breathe. Again, if this is not because of physical exertion, asthma may be a prime suspect.
Loud Breathing: Cats are quiet breathers. Listen to a cat sometimes, and if they're not purring or whining about something, you probably can't hear them unless you listen very carefully. So a cat with a distinct wheeze or other high-pitched sound that is emitted while breathing should certainly see a qualified veterinarian.
Coughing: Cats almost never cough. To someone who has never own a cat but is familiar with dogs, this may come as a surprise. Dogs cough all the time. Cats do not. If your cat is coughing, even occasionally, you may want to take him or her to the vet. Asthma is a possible cause of coughing in cats, so take coughing seriously.
All these symptoms can be caused by the spasmodic constriction of the bronchial tubes and increased secretions from the bronchial tree. In other words: asthma. Asthma in cats is as serious as asthma in humans, so take any signs of asthma seriously and see a qualified veterinarian as soon as possible.
So what is asthma? Basically, asthma is a serious lung condition associated with airway obstruction caused by a sudden narrowing of the bronchial tubes. It's known as many things when referring to cats, such as Feline Allergic Asthma, Feline Lower Airway Disease, Feline Allergic Bronchitis, or Feline Eosinophilic Disease. All of these things are the same thing: asthma. There are certain signs that may indicate that your cat has asthma. If you notice any of the following, you should talk to your veterinarian at the earliest possible opportunity.
Increased Breath Rate: Cats suffering from asthma may be prone to episodes of increased respiratory rate. If you notice your cat breathing faster than normal every once in a while, and its not connected to increased physical activity, you may have a cat with asthma.
Trouble Breathing: Not all cats suffering from asthma will have an increased breath rate. Some of them will simply seem to have to work harder once in a while in order to breathe. Again, if this is not because of physical exertion, asthma may be a prime suspect.
Loud Breathing: Cats are quiet breathers. Listen to a cat sometimes, and if they're not purring or whining about something, you probably can't hear them unless you listen very carefully. So a cat with a distinct wheeze or other high-pitched sound that is emitted while breathing should certainly see a qualified veterinarian.
Coughing: Cats almost never cough. To someone who has never own a cat but is familiar with dogs, this may come as a surprise. Dogs cough all the time. Cats do not. If your cat is coughing, even occasionally, you may want to take him or her to the vet. Asthma is a possible cause of coughing in cats, so take coughing seriously.
All these symptoms can be caused by the spasmodic constriction of the bronchial tubes and increased secretions from the bronchial tree. In other words: asthma. Asthma in cats is as serious as asthma in humans, so take any signs of asthma seriously and see a qualified veterinarian as soon as possible.
Monday, June 18, 2012
Vomiting in Cats
Most cats vomit at some point. Vomitting is a reflex act, so your cat isn't doing it on purpose. There is always a reason for vomitting in cats, though sometimes this reason is hard to determine. The are many different causes of vomitting. If you cat vomits only infrequently, then your cat is probably fine. If, however, the vomitting persists, you will want to call your veterinarian.
Vomitting is a symptom that is often caused by a gastrointestinal disorder. However, vomitting may also indicate a secondary disease from a different system entirely. For example, cats with diabetes, cancer, kidney failure, or some infectious diseases may vomit. This can make determining the cause of vomitting a challenge even for experienced veterinarians.
When Vomitting in Cats Requires Medical Attention
Problematic vomitting is probably best defined as vomitting which is acute (comes on quickly) and results in more than three instances in 24 hours. Alternatively, vomitting that lasts for longer than a week is also problematic. If your cat vomits once and then consumes a meal with no further problem, the issue has resolved itself and probably does not require medical attention. If the vomitting continues after eating or your cat is lethargic or has a fever, see a veterinarian immediately.
There are other signs that your cat should see a veterinarian. Some of these include:
Prevention and Treatment of Vomitting in Felines
You can't prevent all vomitting. It's going to happen, whether it's from a mild illness of a hairball. But you can take steps to keep reduce the number of times your cat might vomit. Keep him indoors and eliminate all toxic plants and other materials from your home. Also switch to a hairball control formula when purchasing cat food. This might help your cat avoid all those hairballs.
When your cat does vomit (provided it is not a hairball), withhold food and water for three hours. After this time, offer small amounts of water. After a couple more hours, offer bland foods, preferably a cat food designed for this purpose, such as Iams Recovery Diet. Slowly reintroduce regular cat food over a two day period. If your cat resumes vomitting at any point, or your cat develops other symptoms, contact your veterinarian. Your vet may wish to begin IV fluids or administer medications to control the vomitting until the cause has been determined.
Vomitting is cats is usually benign and a result of hairballs or other simple problems. However, if you are at all worried about your cat's health, take him immediately to the veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment.
Vomitting is a symptom that is often caused by a gastrointestinal disorder. However, vomitting may also indicate a secondary disease from a different system entirely. For example, cats with diabetes, cancer, kidney failure, or some infectious diseases may vomit. This can make determining the cause of vomitting a challenge even for experienced veterinarians.
When Vomitting in Cats Requires Medical Attention
Problematic vomitting is probably best defined as vomitting which is acute (comes on quickly) and results in more than three instances in 24 hours. Alternatively, vomitting that lasts for longer than a week is also problematic. If your cat vomits once and then consumes a meal with no further problem, the issue has resolved itself and probably does not require medical attention. If the vomitting continues after eating or your cat is lethargic or has a fever, see a veterinarian immediately.
There are other signs that your cat should see a veterinarian. Some of these include:
- Dehydration
- Lethargy (reluctance to move)
- Diarrhea (more than three occurrences in 24 hours)
- Weight loss
- Blood in the vomit
Prevention and Treatment of Vomitting in Felines
You can't prevent all vomitting. It's going to happen, whether it's from a mild illness of a hairball. But you can take steps to keep reduce the number of times your cat might vomit. Keep him indoors and eliminate all toxic plants and other materials from your home. Also switch to a hairball control formula when purchasing cat food. This might help your cat avoid all those hairballs.
When your cat does vomit (provided it is not a hairball), withhold food and water for three hours. After this time, offer small amounts of water. After a couple more hours, offer bland foods, preferably a cat food designed for this purpose, such as Iams Recovery Diet. Slowly reintroduce regular cat food over a two day period. If your cat resumes vomitting at any point, or your cat develops other symptoms, contact your veterinarian. Your vet may wish to begin IV fluids or administer medications to control the vomitting until the cause has been determined.
Vomitting is cats is usually benign and a result of hairballs or other simple problems. However, if you are at all worried about your cat's health, take him immediately to the veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment.
Monday, June 11, 2012
Tips for Fighting Fleas in Cats
Fleas are annoying, but they're also a health risk. They can carry disease and make you and your cat horribly uncomfortable once an full-blown infestation is under way. There are two things you can do: prevent the infestation in the first place, or deal with it once it occurs.
The best way to fight fleas is to prevent them in the first place. Flea prevention should be a concern all year, not simply in the spring or summer. You never know when the weather will get just warm enough to help those little fleas along.
When you begin a program to prevent fleas, treat all your pets. Every cat, every dog, and any other furred companions you might have. Treating only one or two pets won't really help. There are many products on the market today, including flea collars, that can help your pets stay flea free. Talk to your veterinarian about other ways to prevent fleas in your cats.
However, sometimes those little fleas will hitch a ride on your cats despite your best efforts. Fleas cause the most common skin disease in cats, known as flea allergy dermatitis. Fleas can cause small red bumps (called hives) on the skin. These become itchy and sometimes even painful to the touch. Your cat may become so uncomfortable that he scratches or bites himself raw, leaving the skin open to infections.
This is obviously not a good thing for your feline companions, so you'll have to get rid of the fleas immediately. If you see even a single flea or any sign of flea dirt, assume that you have thousands of fleas, larva, and eggs in and around your house. You'll need to treat pets and all living areas, inside and out, at the same time to stop the infestation.
Get yourself a good flea shampoo for your pets and use it according to the package directions. You'll also want to add flea collars to all your pets to help repel the insects. But this alone won't really help. The fleas are already in your house, just waiting for another opportunity to make everyone miserable. If you can afford it, hire a licensed pest control company to take care of the fleas.
You can also tackle the problem yourself, if you're willing. Start by vacuuming every nook and cranny of your home. Pay special attention to any cracks and corners. Then vacuum up some flea powder into your vacuum before disposing of the contents in a sealed garbage bag. There are some very good sprays and foggers on the market for dealing with the fleas you miss. Follow the manufacturer's directions when using these products. You'll probably have to leave the house for several hours while these products start working. Take your pets with you when you do so no one is exposed to toxic chemicals unnecessarily.
Treatment and prevention of fleas should be based on your pets and their lifestyles. Cats that go outside or come into contact with outside animals are at higher risk and may need more prevention or more aggressive treatment. Speak to your vet about risk factors. Don't put this off or you might find yourself with thousands of unexpected guests.
The best way to fight fleas is to prevent them in the first place. Flea prevention should be a concern all year, not simply in the spring or summer. You never know when the weather will get just warm enough to help those little fleas along.
When you begin a program to prevent fleas, treat all your pets. Every cat, every dog, and any other furred companions you might have. Treating only one or two pets won't really help. There are many products on the market today, including flea collars, that can help your pets stay flea free. Talk to your veterinarian about other ways to prevent fleas in your cats.
However, sometimes those little fleas will hitch a ride on your cats despite your best efforts. Fleas cause the most common skin disease in cats, known as flea allergy dermatitis. Fleas can cause small red bumps (called hives) on the skin. These become itchy and sometimes even painful to the touch. Your cat may become so uncomfortable that he scratches or bites himself raw, leaving the skin open to infections.
This is obviously not a good thing for your feline companions, so you'll have to get rid of the fleas immediately. If you see even a single flea or any sign of flea dirt, assume that you have thousands of fleas, larva, and eggs in and around your house. You'll need to treat pets and all living areas, inside and out, at the same time to stop the infestation.
Get yourself a good flea shampoo for your pets and use it according to the package directions. You'll also want to add flea collars to all your pets to help repel the insects. But this alone won't really help. The fleas are already in your house, just waiting for another opportunity to make everyone miserable. If you can afford it, hire a licensed pest control company to take care of the fleas.
You can also tackle the problem yourself, if you're willing. Start by vacuuming every nook and cranny of your home. Pay special attention to any cracks and corners. Then vacuum up some flea powder into your vacuum before disposing of the contents in a sealed garbage bag. There are some very good sprays and foggers on the market for dealing with the fleas you miss. Follow the manufacturer's directions when using these products. You'll probably have to leave the house for several hours while these products start working. Take your pets with you when you do so no one is exposed to toxic chemicals unnecessarily.
Treatment and prevention of fleas should be based on your pets and their lifestyles. Cats that go outside or come into contact with outside animals are at higher risk and may need more prevention or more aggressive treatment. Speak to your vet about risk factors. Don't put this off or you might find yourself with thousands of unexpected guests.
Monday, May 21, 2012
Protecting Your Cat During a Natural Disaster
Hurricanes, floods, tsunamis, and more. In most areas of the world, natural disasters happen on occasion. And with these disasters often comes the recommendation (or order) to evacuate. But many people do not heed these warnings out of a desire to protect their pets. During an evacuation, it can be difficult, perhaps even impossible, to take your cat with you, and most shelters will not accept pets during an evacuation.
Natural disasters of all kinds, including tornadoes and wildfires, can leave your feline companions stranded or even lost. The best thing you can do is to be prepared just in case you and your cat are separated during a natural disaster.
Before disaster strikes, get ready. Get a collar for your pet and make sure that collar has a visible ID tag. This tag should have a phone number, but during a natural disaster, phone lines might be out. Choose a cell phone number or an out-of-area number for the tag instead. Also consider adding a tag to all carriers and necessary supplies, just in case. You might want to microchip your cat as an added identification.
Go out and purchase a decent carrier and leash for each cat. In fact, all your pets should have their own individual carrier and leash, labelled with the pet's name, your name, and a phone number. This way you'll be ready to take your cat with you. But also plan to be separated and keep a small file in your purse to help you identify your cat. This file should have photos, health certificates, and anything else you can use to prove your cat is actually your cat.
You may have to make arrangements for your cat to stay elsewhere during a natural disaster. Make a list of friends and family who are willing to care for your cat and also create a comprehensive list of kennels and other boarding facilities. There are also many hotels that will accept patrons with pets. However, many of these facilities require that you provide proof of up-to-date vaccinations. Keep your cat's shots current and keep that proof in the file in your purse.
Have a kit with a week's worth of supplies ready for transport. This kit should include food, water, cat litter, bedding, and any medication your cat requires. You should take your cat with you during an evacuation if at all possible. Remember, if it's not safe for you to stay home, it's not safe for your cat.
If you do not have to evacuate, keep your cat indoors. And do not leave your cat in the basement. Basements are the first place to flood during a natural disaster and you cat could drown. Locate the safest place in your home and put the cat's carrier there.
Becoming separated from your cat is a real possibility during a natural disaster. If this happens to you, don't panic. When you return home, call your local animals shelters immediately. They may have picked up your cat at some point. Also look around your neighborhood. Your cat may not have gone far or might be camping out at a friend's.
Natural disasters are frightening for both you and your pets. However, if you plan ahead and keep a level head, you and your pets should come out the other side of whatever disaster befalls you with a minimum amount of anguish.
Natural disasters of all kinds, including tornadoes and wildfires, can leave your feline companions stranded or even lost. The best thing you can do is to be prepared just in case you and your cat are separated during a natural disaster.
Before disaster strikes, get ready. Get a collar for your pet and make sure that collar has a visible ID tag. This tag should have a phone number, but during a natural disaster, phone lines might be out. Choose a cell phone number or an out-of-area number for the tag instead. Also consider adding a tag to all carriers and necessary supplies, just in case. You might want to microchip your cat as an added identification.
Go out and purchase a decent carrier and leash for each cat. In fact, all your pets should have their own individual carrier and leash, labelled with the pet's name, your name, and a phone number. This way you'll be ready to take your cat with you. But also plan to be separated and keep a small file in your purse to help you identify your cat. This file should have photos, health certificates, and anything else you can use to prove your cat is actually your cat.
You may have to make arrangements for your cat to stay elsewhere during a natural disaster. Make a list of friends and family who are willing to care for your cat and also create a comprehensive list of kennels and other boarding facilities. There are also many hotels that will accept patrons with pets. However, many of these facilities require that you provide proof of up-to-date vaccinations. Keep your cat's shots current and keep that proof in the file in your purse.
Have a kit with a week's worth of supplies ready for transport. This kit should include food, water, cat litter, bedding, and any medication your cat requires. You should take your cat with you during an evacuation if at all possible. Remember, if it's not safe for you to stay home, it's not safe for your cat.
If you do not have to evacuate, keep your cat indoors. And do not leave your cat in the basement. Basements are the first place to flood during a natural disaster and you cat could drown. Locate the safest place in your home and put the cat's carrier there.
Becoming separated from your cat is a real possibility during a natural disaster. If this happens to you, don't panic. When you return home, call your local animals shelters immediately. They may have picked up your cat at some point. Also look around your neighborhood. Your cat may not have gone far or might be camping out at a friend's.
Natural disasters are frightening for both you and your pets. However, if you plan ahead and keep a level head, you and your pets should come out the other side of whatever disaster befalls you with a minimum amount of anguish.
Monday, May 14, 2012
Cat Food Palatability
Palatability is one of those large words that describes something very simple. It describes how well an animal, in this case a cat, likes the aroma, texture, and flavor of a food. It might be assumes that taste and aroma are the most important part of a well-liked cat food. However, texture and shape are just as important to your cat. Let's talk about each component of cat food in the order your cat will appreciate them.
A cat will first smell the cat food. Does it have a scent at all? Is that scent overpowering or tantalizing? If it smells foul, the cat will walk away. The cat will make a snap decision based on the scent of the cat food. If it passes the sniff test, the cat will continue to check out the food.
When the cat finally tastes the food, there will be three things that will determine whether the cat will continue eating. Taste, texture, and shape will all be evaluated at roughly the same time. If your cat doesn't like the taste, he'll likely walk away after that first bite. It may take a couple more bites for your feline companion to evaluate the texture of the food. If your cat chews akwardly and has no medical problems contributing to this, then the shape is probably less than accepable.
If the food you're serving doesn't meet your cats expectations in regards to aroma, texture, taste, or shape, consider a different food. Sticking with a food your cat does not consider palatable is very like forcing someone who hates mushrooms to eat an entire plateful. Take your cat's preferences seriously and he'll thank you for it later.
A cat will first smell the cat food. Does it have a scent at all? Is that scent overpowering or tantalizing? If it smells foul, the cat will walk away. The cat will make a snap decision based on the scent of the cat food. If it passes the sniff test, the cat will continue to check out the food.
When the cat finally tastes the food, there will be three things that will determine whether the cat will continue eating. Taste, texture, and shape will all be evaluated at roughly the same time. If your cat doesn't like the taste, he'll likely walk away after that first bite. It may take a couple more bites for your feline companion to evaluate the texture of the food. If your cat chews akwardly and has no medical problems contributing to this, then the shape is probably less than accepable.
If the food you're serving doesn't meet your cats expectations in regards to aroma, texture, taste, or shape, consider a different food. Sticking with a food your cat does not consider palatable is very like forcing someone who hates mushrooms to eat an entire plateful. Take your cat's preferences seriously and he'll thank you for it later.
Friday, May 4, 2012
Lawn and Garden Hazards for Cats
Spring rolls around and we find ourselves wandering down the lawn & garden aisle of our local home improvement store. Maybe we even take a trip to the local nursery. But as you stroll through these areas, take a look at many of the products offered. Most of them will be toxic to cats and other animals, so you'll have to be careful when it comes to the products you use on your lawn and in your garden. Some of these products can kill your cat while others can bring on serious illness.
Almost all insecticides are highly toxic to felines in any concentration. These products, used to reduce or eliminate the number of annoying and damaging insects, should be used sparringly. Try some natural alternatives to insecticides first, such as soap and water.
Herbicides and fertilizers are also highly toxic, but usually only in their concentrated form. If you must use them, keep the bags and containers out of reach of your cats. Once applied to your lawn, keep your cats out of the area for at least an hour. After that, your pets should be able to safely walk on the lawn. However, you should read the manufacturer's directions first, as they may recommend a longer wait time before permitting pets on the lawn.
Many gardeners have a problem with pests of the larger variety. But beware. Poisons designed to kill mice, rats, gophers, moles, and other vermin will also kill your cat. Even the smallest amount of these products can kill or seriously injure your cat and there is usually nothing your local vet can do to safe your poor kitty. Keep them safely tucked away. When you must use them, place them only in areas your cat cannot access. This same rule applies for snail and slug baits.
Mulch is normally safe enough, but check the ingredient list. Mulches that contain cacoa bean can be toxic. Unfortunately, they also smell great, especially to cats. When you first lay it down, your cats may not be able to resist the delicious chocolately aroma. Keep your cats away from it until after a heavy rainfall, which usually reduces both the aroma and the toxicity of the mulch.
One product that many people think nothing of is citronella candles. They're great for keeping away the mosquitos but if a cat starts to eat a candle, there can be serious and lifethreatening problems. Sometimes even the gas emitted from a burning candle can cause a problem, so don't let kitty sit right next to a burning candle.
Setting up your garden in the spring shouldn't be fraught with dangers for your feline companions. Read all warning labels before you purchase any product and apply only according to the manufacturer's directions. When it doubt, keep it away from kitty, because even seemingly innocent products can cause illness or even death for your cat.
Almost all insecticides are highly toxic to felines in any concentration. These products, used to reduce or eliminate the number of annoying and damaging insects, should be used sparringly. Try some natural alternatives to insecticides first, such as soap and water.
Herbicides and fertilizers are also highly toxic, but usually only in their concentrated form. If you must use them, keep the bags and containers out of reach of your cats. Once applied to your lawn, keep your cats out of the area for at least an hour. After that, your pets should be able to safely walk on the lawn. However, you should read the manufacturer's directions first, as they may recommend a longer wait time before permitting pets on the lawn.
Many gardeners have a problem with pests of the larger variety. But beware. Poisons designed to kill mice, rats, gophers, moles, and other vermin will also kill your cat. Even the smallest amount of these products can kill or seriously injure your cat and there is usually nothing your local vet can do to safe your poor kitty. Keep them safely tucked away. When you must use them, place them only in areas your cat cannot access. This same rule applies for snail and slug baits.
Mulch is normally safe enough, but check the ingredient list. Mulches that contain cacoa bean can be toxic. Unfortunately, they also smell great, especially to cats. When you first lay it down, your cats may not be able to resist the delicious chocolately aroma. Keep your cats away from it until after a heavy rainfall, which usually reduces both the aroma and the toxicity of the mulch.
One product that many people think nothing of is citronella candles. They're great for keeping away the mosquitos but if a cat starts to eat a candle, there can be serious and lifethreatening problems. Sometimes even the gas emitted from a burning candle can cause a problem, so don't let kitty sit right next to a burning candle.
Setting up your garden in the spring shouldn't be fraught with dangers for your feline companions. Read all warning labels before you purchase any product and apply only according to the manufacturer's directions. When it doubt, keep it away from kitty, because even seemingly innocent products can cause illness or even death for your cat.
Saturday, April 28, 2012
Cats and the Dangers of Lawn and Garden Chemicals
When caring for your lawn and garden, it's very easy to just reach for the chemical pesticides and herbicides. However, these products can be potentially fatal to your feline companions. Using these products reduces the risk to your cats and other animals that might enter your lawn or garden. If you think your cats will not ingest the chemical products, think again. Many of the products that you might apply to your lawn smell and taste sweet to cats, so poisonings are all too common.
Thankfully, there are many alternatives to the traditional chemicals available on the market to day. But even these alternatives can be toxic in high enough amounts. Apply all lawn and garden chemicals according to the manufacturer's directions. Don't apply more simply because you think your lawn needs it.
Alternatives to Chemical Pesticides
Insects can damage your plants and flowers. However, you don't necessarily have to purchase expensive and toxic chemicals to solve the problem of aphids, thrips, or spider mites. Try using a simple garden hose with a nozzle attached. Many of the most common insects that might infest your garden have relatively soft bodies and can be eliminated with just water. Spray down your garden twice a day for a week and you'll probably be problem free.
If the infestation is a little more stubborn, add a little dish soap to some water and spray down the garden again. You might want to check your local garden store for insecticidal soaps if have a large infestation. Even this is less toxic than chemical insecticides.
Alternatives to Chemical Fertilizers
There's a simple and easy way to fertilize your lawn and garden without resorting to commercial fertilizers. Compost. Start a compost pile and apply it twice a year to your lawn and garden. This adds essential nutrients to the soil without the addition of any chemical fertilizers, keeping your yard save for your cats.
The fewer chemicals you add to your yard the safer your cats, dogs, and other pets will be. If you must use chemicals, use as little as possible for the sake of your feline friends and your garden will be a safe and happy place all summer long.
Thankfully, there are many alternatives to the traditional chemicals available on the market to day. But even these alternatives can be toxic in high enough amounts. Apply all lawn and garden chemicals according to the manufacturer's directions. Don't apply more simply because you think your lawn needs it.
Alternatives to Chemical Pesticides
Insects can damage your plants and flowers. However, you don't necessarily have to purchase expensive and toxic chemicals to solve the problem of aphids, thrips, or spider mites. Try using a simple garden hose with a nozzle attached. Many of the most common insects that might infest your garden have relatively soft bodies and can be eliminated with just water. Spray down your garden twice a day for a week and you'll probably be problem free.
If the infestation is a little more stubborn, add a little dish soap to some water and spray down the garden again. You might want to check your local garden store for insecticidal soaps if have a large infestation. Even this is less toxic than chemical insecticides.
Alternatives to Chemical Fertilizers
There's a simple and easy way to fertilize your lawn and garden without resorting to commercial fertilizers. Compost. Start a compost pile and apply it twice a year to your lawn and garden. This adds essential nutrients to the soil without the addition of any chemical fertilizers, keeping your yard save for your cats.
The fewer chemicals you add to your yard the safer your cats, dogs, and other pets will be. If you must use chemicals, use as little as possible for the sake of your feline friends and your garden will be a safe and happy place all summer long.
Friday, April 13, 2012
Planting a Cat Safe Vegetable Garden
You might assume that a vegetable garden, since it contains edible plants, would be safe for your feline companions. In most cases, you would be correct. However, there are some vegetables that can pose a hazard for cats and other animals that might be in your garden. Some of these will cause your cat to become ill. Others may kill your cat in high enough quantities. Before planting any potentially toxic plants, consider how you will keep your cat safe from the dangerous side effects of many of these vegetables and herbs.
Onions, chives, and garlic contain a compound that, if ingested, can cause anemia in cats. Many cats are attracted to these plants, so consider planting them in hanging baskets or other planters that can be kept away from your cats. Any part of the potato plant that is green, including the leaves and the still-green skin of young potatoes, can be toxic to your cat if eaten in sufficient quantities. Again, containers are an option. Or consider building a chicken-coop style enclosure to protect your plants from pets and other wildlife.
Also beware of the fruits that might be planted in and around your yard. The seeds and pits of a variety of fruits contain toxic chemicals such as cyanide that could cause seizures or even death. Some of these fruits include apple, apricot, cherry, peach, and plum.
It would be highly difficult to creat a cage around a tree simply to protect them from animals. However, there are other options for keeping your cats safe from fruit and vegetable gardens. You might want to plant cat grass or cat mint (catnip) in certain areas of your yard to attract your cats. They'll probably be so interested in the cat mint or cat grass that they'll leave your garden alone. Also consider placing sprinklers around the edge of your garden. Most cats hate being wet, so they'll find somewhere else to explore.
There are many plants that can be planted that pose no risk to your feline friends. These include cucumbers, pumpkins, tomatoes, peppers, and most herbs. If in doubt, simply keep your pets away from your garden and they'll stay safe and healthy all summer long.
Friday, April 6, 2012
Ten Plants That are Highly Toxic to Cats in a Flower Garden
There are many options for planting a cat-safe flower garden in the spring. However, there are some plants that are so toxic that they should be avoided altogether. These plants can and will kill a cat if they are ingested. In addition, they are attractive due to their heady scents. To keep your cat safe, avoid these top ten toxic plants.- Castor Bean
- Foxglove
- Japanese Yew
- Jerusalem Cherry
- Lily of the Valley
- Morning Glory
- Nightshade
- Oleander
- Precatory Beans
- Trumpet Vine
Friday, March 30, 2012
Planting a Flower Garden That is Safe for Cats
Planting a garden can be great fun and is a wonderful way to spend some time outside by yourself or with your family and friends. However, your pets may also spend time outdoors in the spring and summer and they can be affected by the plants you grow. Whether you're planting a large garden in your backyard or simply filling a window box in your kitchen, you should be well aware of what might harm your cats and other animal companions before you put a single seed into the ground.
Plants for a Sunny Garden
If you have a garden that gets a lot of sun, you'll want to select plants that thrive in the sun. Typically, the plants listed here thrive on more than four hours of sun. I've divided the list into annuals and perennials. Annuals are those plants that must be replanted every spring. Perennials return year after year, but they are more expensive.
Annuals that thrive in a sunny garden and are safe for your cats and other pets include:
- Calendula
- Cosmos
- Petunia
- Snapdragons
- Zinnia
- Bee Balm
- Catmint (this one will attract cats and have them nibbling at it all summer)
- Coneflowers
- Pholx
- Roses
Plants that thrive in one to four hours of direct sunlight a day are considered partial sun plants. Annuals that thrive in partial sun and are safe for cats include:
- Butterfly Flower
- Nasturtium
- Primrose
- Spider Flower
- Columbine
- Coral Bells
- Goat's Beard
- Turf Lily
Planting a garden in an area that received little to no direct sunlight can sometimes pose a problem. However, there are plants that thrive in the shade and are still safe for your feline companions. Annuals that meet this criteria include:
- Coleus
- Impatiens
- Violet
- Astible
- Bugbane
- Queen of the Meadow
- Yellow Corydalis
Friday, March 23, 2012
The Poisoning of Cats in the Spring and Summer
As spring and summer approach, most families with pets will be spending more and more time outside. Many cats are permitted outdoors in warmer weather and so will also spend much of the spring and summer outdoors enjoying the sunshine. But even indoor cats or those who never step off the front porch can be poisoned with common household items that make an appearance in the spring. Be aware of which items pose a risk and limit your feline's access when at all possible.
Lawn care products are one of the greatest culprits of cat poisoning in the warmer months. Fertilizers, herbicides, insecticides, and fungicides are incredibly toxic to cats. When applied according to the manufacturer's directions, most of the chemicals are safe. However, cats are curious creatures and poisoning generally occurs when they come into contact with the concentrated product. To avoid this, store products securely and never use more of the product that recommended. Cats have died from walking across a lawn where too much fertilizer has been applied.
Animals of all kinds like to chew on plants, including cats. Fortunately, most outdoor grasses are non-toxic. However, as gardens are planted in the spring, many potentially toxic plants sneak in. Educate yourself before planting either indoor or outdoor plants. Pointsettias, Easter lily, tulips, lily of the valley, azaleas are among the most deadly, but research each plant before adding to your garden to avoid inadvertently poisoning your cat.
As you plan your garden and fill your planters this spring, take the time to consider the health and well being of your cat. Reserach each product and plant you use carefully and choose less toxic options whenever possible. This will help ensure a safe and happy season for everyone, including your feline companions.
Friday, March 16, 2012
Caring for Your Cat — Trimming a Cat's Claws
Learning how to trim cat claws is fairly straightforward but actually doing it can present a challenge. However, despite the difficulties, it is important to trim your cat’s claws regularly. It helps prevent damage to your furniture, keeps the cat in good health, and saves you money since you won’t have to run your cat to the groomer as often.
Preparing to Trim Your Cat's Claws
Cats can be finicky things. If you want to be able to trim your cat’s claws quickly and easily, you should first help him (or her, as the case may be) adjust to having his feet handled. Start by gently massaging your cat’s feet every day. If your older cat has never had the opportunity to get used being handled in this manner, it may take a couple of weeks before he is calm enough for you to attempt to cut a claw or two.
You’ll want to purchase a set of clippers specifically designed for cats; there are many cat nail trimmers on the market. Those made for dogs are usually too large for your feline. If you have to, use a set for very small dogs. You can also use human nail clippers if you have to, but these are not as effective as cat clippers. Whatever you use, make sure the clippers are sharp. A dull pair of clippers will only crush the claw and possibly cause pain to your cat.
You’ll also want something to stop the bleeding, just in case you cut the nail too short. A styptic pencil works well, as do nitrate sticks or potassium of permanganate. You can usually find at least one of these products at your local pet supply shop. If you don’t have any of these items, a tiny bowl of household flour will work just as well.
Before you start clipping your cat’s claws, wrap him in a towel or blanket, leaving only his head free. This will keep him from scratching you if he objects to having his nails trimmed. If your cat is calmed by the use of peppermint, consider adding a single drop to the cat’s head. Seat yourself and take a firm grip of your cat. Free one paw from the towel and prepare to trim a few claws.
Trimming Your Cat’s Claws
Hold the cat’s paw firmly in your hand. To make things easier on you and more comfortable for your cat, you should put your fingers on the underside of the paw and keep your thumb on top. Your cat will probably squirm, so hold on tight.
Using your thumb, gently apply a forward pressure to one toe only. This will cause the claw to move out of its sheath, making it visible. Apply pressure until the claw is completely exposed. This will keep you from accidentally cutting the cat’s paw.
Look closely at the claw, and you will notice that there is a faint pink center. This is called the quick and is full of blood. If you cut into the quick, the cat will be hurt and even begin to bleed. It is important that you do not touch the quick with your clippers. If you do happen to cut the quick, use the styptic pencil or flour to help stop the bleeding. Just dip the bleeding claw into the flour, or use the styptic pencil according to the manufacturer’s directions.
Snip off the end of the claw between the tip and the quick. Do this quickly so your cat doesn’t get too upset. If necessary, cut only one or two claws at a time, allowing your cat to calm down between each session. You can also attempt to cut your cat’s claws when he’s asleep, but this can potentially make your cat very angry if he wakes up during the process. This is only recommended if your cat is a deep sleeper and unlikely to attack you if he catches you clipping his claws.
Preparing to Trim Your Cat's Claws
Cats can be finicky things. If you want to be able to trim your cat’s claws quickly and easily, you should first help him (or her, as the case may be) adjust to having his feet handled. Start by gently massaging your cat’s feet every day. If your older cat has never had the opportunity to get used being handled in this manner, it may take a couple of weeks before he is calm enough for you to attempt to cut a claw or two.
You’ll want to purchase a set of clippers specifically designed for cats; there are many cat nail trimmers on the market. Those made for dogs are usually too large for your feline. If you have to, use a set for very small dogs. You can also use human nail clippers if you have to, but these are not as effective as cat clippers. Whatever you use, make sure the clippers are sharp. A dull pair of clippers will only crush the claw and possibly cause pain to your cat.You’ll also want something to stop the bleeding, just in case you cut the nail too short. A styptic pencil works well, as do nitrate sticks or potassium of permanganate. You can usually find at least one of these products at your local pet supply shop. If you don’t have any of these items, a tiny bowl of household flour will work just as well.
Before you start clipping your cat’s claws, wrap him in a towel or blanket, leaving only his head free. This will keep him from scratching you if he objects to having his nails trimmed. If your cat is calmed by the use of peppermint, consider adding a single drop to the cat’s head. Seat yourself and take a firm grip of your cat. Free one paw from the towel and prepare to trim a few claws.
Trimming Your Cat’s Claws
Hold the cat’s paw firmly in your hand. To make things easier on you and more comfortable for your cat, you should put your fingers on the underside of the paw and keep your thumb on top. Your cat will probably squirm, so hold on tight.
Using your thumb, gently apply a forward pressure to one toe only. This will cause the claw to move out of its sheath, making it visible. Apply pressure until the claw is completely exposed. This will keep you from accidentally cutting the cat’s paw.Look closely at the claw, and you will notice that there is a faint pink center. This is called the quick and is full of blood. If you cut into the quick, the cat will be hurt and even begin to bleed. It is important that you do not touch the quick with your clippers. If you do happen to cut the quick, use the styptic pencil or flour to help stop the bleeding. Just dip the bleeding claw into the flour, or use the styptic pencil according to the manufacturer’s directions.
Snip off the end of the claw between the tip and the quick. Do this quickly so your cat doesn’t get too upset. If necessary, cut only one or two claws at a time, allowing your cat to calm down between each session. You can also attempt to cut your cat’s claws when he’s asleep, but this can potentially make your cat very angry if he wakes up during the process. This is only recommended if your cat is a deep sleeper and unlikely to attack you if he catches you clipping his claws.Friday, March 9, 2012
Natural Remedies for Felines — Do Cats Like Peppermint?
Many people use peppermint, both the plant and the oil, to calm or descent their cats. This makes a certain amount of sense because peppermint is in the same family as catnip. Do cats like peppermint? Yes, many cats, though certainly not all, are attracted to the scent of peppermint. However, peppermint and catnip are not interchangeable, and care should be taken when administering any peppermint product to a cat.
The Dangers of Peppermint in Cats
According to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA), cats are much more sensitive to peppermint products than most other pets. Peppermint leaves, if ingested, could potentially cause your cat an upset stomach. Peppermint extract can create a burning sensation if it comes in direct contact with the skin.
Peppermint oil, however, is especially dangerous. If swallowed, peppermint oil can cause gastrointestinal upset, a suppression of the central nervous system, and even liver damage. Some peppermint oils contain a derivative of aspirin, which is highly toxic to cats. Peppermint oils should not be used around cats at any time.
The Safe Use of Peppermint with Cats
One of the problems with using any aromatherapy product, such as peppermint or cinnamon, with cats is that felines have a heightened sense of smell. This makes them more sensitive to scented products in the first place. If you do choose to use peppermint around your cats, make sure you use only a small amount. Your cats will smell it even if you can’t.
If your cat truly adores peppermint and you’d like to make use of it, there are safe ways to do so. You can take peppermint leaves and encase them in fabric, much like a catnip toy. You can then give it to your cats as long as you supervise them carefully. You don’t want your cat to eat any of the plant material. These toys will calm many cats, though some may have the opposite reaction.
Peppermint extract can also be used if properly diluted. Use approximately one-quarter cup of a carrier oil such as jojoba or olive and a few drops of peppermint extract. This mixture can be used to deodorize a cat, but be very careful to keep it away from any mucus membranes. You’ll only need the smallest amount of your mixture, and only apply it to the fur. If you can smell peppermint on the cat from three feet away, then you’ve used too much for the comfort of your cat.
You can also use this mixture when introducing a new cat into your household. Simply place a few drops on each cat and the introductions will usually be much smoother. This also works when bringing one cat home from an extended stay at the veterinarian’s office.
Because it is potentially toxic, many veterinarians will recommend against using peppermint products around cats. It is very important that no plant material, oil, or extract is ingested by your cats as they may become ill. If you do choose to use peppermint around your cats, do so with caution. It should also be noted that not all felines like peppermint. If your cat seems bothered by peppermint, you should immediately discontinue use.
So, do cats like peppermint? Some do, which pet owners can use to their benefit!
The Dangers of Peppermint in Cats
According to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA), cats are much more sensitive to peppermint products than most other pets. Peppermint leaves, if ingested, could potentially cause your cat an upset stomach. Peppermint extract can create a burning sensation if it comes in direct contact with the skin.
Peppermint oil, however, is especially dangerous. If swallowed, peppermint oil can cause gastrointestinal upset, a suppression of the central nervous system, and even liver damage. Some peppermint oils contain a derivative of aspirin, which is highly toxic to cats. Peppermint oils should not be used around cats at any time.
The Safe Use of Peppermint with Cats
One of the problems with using any aromatherapy product, such as peppermint or cinnamon, with cats is that felines have a heightened sense of smell. This makes them more sensitive to scented products in the first place. If you do choose to use peppermint around your cats, make sure you use only a small amount. Your cats will smell it even if you can’t.
If your cat truly adores peppermint and you’d like to make use of it, there are safe ways to do so. You can take peppermint leaves and encase them in fabric, much like a catnip toy. You can then give it to your cats as long as you supervise them carefully. You don’t want your cat to eat any of the plant material. These toys will calm many cats, though some may have the opposite reaction.
Peppermint extract can also be used if properly diluted. Use approximately one-quarter cup of a carrier oil such as jojoba or olive and a few drops of peppermint extract. This mixture can be used to deodorize a cat, but be very careful to keep it away from any mucus membranes. You’ll only need the smallest amount of your mixture, and only apply it to the fur. If you can smell peppermint on the cat from three feet away, then you’ve used too much for the comfort of your cat.
You can also use this mixture when introducing a new cat into your household. Simply place a few drops on each cat and the introductions will usually be much smoother. This also works when bringing one cat home from an extended stay at the veterinarian’s office.
Because it is potentially toxic, many veterinarians will recommend against using peppermint products around cats. It is very important that no plant material, oil, or extract is ingested by your cats as they may become ill. If you do choose to use peppermint around your cats, do so with caution. It should also be noted that not all felines like peppermint. If your cat seems bothered by peppermint, you should immediately discontinue use.
So, do cats like peppermint? Some do, which pet owners can use to their benefit!
Friday, March 2, 2012
Identifying and Treating Liver Fluke in Cats
The cat liver fluke, known more properly as Opisthorchis felineus, is a dangerous parasite that lives in water and can be transmitted to cats by way of a secondary host. Typically, the parasite is ingested by a lizard, frog, or fish. The lizard, frog, or fish is then eaten by a cat, causing the cat to become infected. If the liver fluke makes its way into the binary tract or liver, the cat may become seriously ill. Liver fluke in cats is most common in tropical areas such as Hawaii, Florida, and most of Central America. Up to 85 percent of cats living in tropical areas are infected with liver fluke.
Symptoms of Liver Fluke Infestation in Cats
Most infected cats are asymptomatic, meaning they typically don’t display any symptoms. However, a cat with a more severe infection will display certain characteristic symptoms. Some of these may include:
Before any testing takes place, most veterinarians will ask you to evaluate your cat for risk factors. You will likely need to provide your vet with a history of your cat’s health, lifestyle factors, and document the onset of symptoms. If your cat lives in a tropical area and is permitted outside, your vet may decide to run additional tests to confirm diagnosis.
The only way to know for sure if your cat is infested with liver fluke is by taking fluid and tissue samples from the liver. These samples are sent for laboratory analysis. Alternatively, your vet may decide to perform a microscopic examination of liver tissue or search for any eggs that may be present in your cat’s feces.
Treating Liver Fluke in Felines
Left untreated, liver fluke can kill your feline companion. Your vet, however, can initiate a treatment program. Cats that are seriously ill will generally need to be hospitalized. They will require intravenous fluids and food, as well as medication, to assist in clearing the body of the parasite. Vitamin D may also be administered to promote recovery. Your veterinarian will likely administer antibiotics as well to prevent any infections. Some cats may need surgery if the bile ducts become blocked.
If your cat is less seriously ill, your vet may allow you to treat your cat as an outpatient. In this case, your vet may give you a drug that kills parasitic worms, such as praziquantel, to administer at home. This is usually given orally. Administer all medications according to your veterinarian’s instructions.
Liver fluke in cats can lead to additional complications such as liver enzymes or fecal sedimentation. To prevent and treat these complications, you vet will likely wish to examine your cat from time to time even after treatment has been completed. You will also want to watch your cat carefully for signs of a recurring infestation such as unexplained weight loss, loss of appetite, or any other changes in your cat. For most cats that receive appropriate treatment before severe damage is done to the liver, a full and uncomplicated recovery is expected.
Preventing Liver Fluke Infestation
For cats that live in tropical areas, steps should be taken to limit exposure to liver fluke. Keeping your cat indoors is one way to reduce the risk of infestation. However, for cats that live in a high-risk area, you may want to consider a medication to prevent parasitic infestation. This medication is typically administered every three months, but your veterinarian may suggest another schedule.
It is important to treat liver fluke quickly and efficiently. This is not just for the sake of your cat, but for the safety of your family. Liver fluke can be transmitted to humans, though this can generally be prevented by proper hygiene such as washing your hands frequently. Properly treated, however, liver fluke can be eliminated, assuring the safety of you, your family, and your cat.
Symptoms of Liver Fluke Infestation in Cats
Most infected cats are asymptomatic, meaning they typically don’t display any symptoms. However, a cat with a more severe infection will display certain characteristic symptoms. Some of these may include:
- Diarrhea
- Vomiting
- Loss of appetite
- Severe weight loss
- Abdominal distension
- Enlarged liver
- Jaundice
- Fever
- General disability
Before any testing takes place, most veterinarians will ask you to evaluate your cat for risk factors. You will likely need to provide your vet with a history of your cat’s health, lifestyle factors, and document the onset of symptoms. If your cat lives in a tropical area and is permitted outside, your vet may decide to run additional tests to confirm diagnosis.
The only way to know for sure if your cat is infested with liver fluke is by taking fluid and tissue samples from the liver. These samples are sent for laboratory analysis. Alternatively, your vet may decide to perform a microscopic examination of liver tissue or search for any eggs that may be present in your cat’s feces.
Treating Liver Fluke in Felines
Left untreated, liver fluke can kill your feline companion. Your vet, however, can initiate a treatment program. Cats that are seriously ill will generally need to be hospitalized. They will require intravenous fluids and food, as well as medication, to assist in clearing the body of the parasite. Vitamin D may also be administered to promote recovery. Your veterinarian will likely administer antibiotics as well to prevent any infections. Some cats may need surgery if the bile ducts become blocked.
If your cat is less seriously ill, your vet may allow you to treat your cat as an outpatient. In this case, your vet may give you a drug that kills parasitic worms, such as praziquantel, to administer at home. This is usually given orally. Administer all medications according to your veterinarian’s instructions.
Liver fluke in cats can lead to additional complications such as liver enzymes or fecal sedimentation. To prevent and treat these complications, you vet will likely wish to examine your cat from time to time even after treatment has been completed. You will also want to watch your cat carefully for signs of a recurring infestation such as unexplained weight loss, loss of appetite, or any other changes in your cat. For most cats that receive appropriate treatment before severe damage is done to the liver, a full and uncomplicated recovery is expected.
Preventing Liver Fluke Infestation
For cats that live in tropical areas, steps should be taken to limit exposure to liver fluke. Keeping your cat indoors is one way to reduce the risk of infestation. However, for cats that live in a high-risk area, you may want to consider a medication to prevent parasitic infestation. This medication is typically administered every three months, but your veterinarian may suggest another schedule.
It is important to treat liver fluke quickly and efficiently. This is not just for the sake of your cat, but for the safety of your family. Liver fluke can be transmitted to humans, though this can generally be prevented by proper hygiene such as washing your hands frequently. Properly treated, however, liver fluke can be eliminated, assuring the safety of you, your family, and your cat.
Friday, February 24, 2012
Natural Remedies for Felines — Is Cinnamon Safe for Cats?
With the popularity of natural remedies on the rise, many people have begun wondering how many of the various herbs and other plants are safe for their feline companions. Cinnamon is commonly used by humans to aid digestion, relieve pain, and lessen the impact of colds and flus. But is cinnamon safe for cats?
Cinnamon Bark and Its Dangers
One of the most common problems of any natural remedy is ensuring that you have the right herb. In many cases, cinnamon is confused with cinnamon bark. True cinnamon, that which is found in most spice cabinets, is the inner bark of a small evergreen tree. Cinnamon bark is from the exterior of the plant.
Experts recommend that cinnamon bark not be used in any consumer products for either humans or animals. The bark, oil, and extract are all dangerous. If ingested in even small quantities, the cat could begin vomiting. Your cat may also develop severe liver problems. Cinnamon bark oil could irritate the eyes and even cause blindness. Cinnamon bark should be avoided for the health of your cat.
Cinnamon and Cats
In very small quantities, ground cinnamon is safe enough in cats. Some may even enjoy the taste of a little powdered cinnamon, though most cats seem not to like the odor. Do not allow your cat to ingest more than the smallest amount of cinnamon. In larger quantities, cinnamon may induce vomiting.
Cinnamon, like peppermint and other herbs, can have a variety of effects on cats. Some will find it calming; others will be stimulated. Some will react to cinnamon much in the same way as they will to catnip. There are also those cats who will hate it. You will have to observe your own feline to determine if cinnamon is right for your cat.
However, it is important to remember that cats have a heightened sense of smell. A scent that is pleasant to a person may be overwhelming for a feline. When using cinnamon around your cats, use as little as possible. Many cats hate the scent of cinnamon to the point where it becomes a repellent. In fact, some people use cinnamon as a decent cat repellent.
Cinnamon oil and extract should not be used around cats at any time. Both of these might burn a cat’s delicate skin and could damage mucus membranes around the eyes or in the mouth. Cinnamon oil may also contain a derivative of ASA, or acetylsalicylic acid (a pain reliever sold over the counter under proprietary brand names, including ASPIRIN® brand ASA). ASA is highly toxic to cats.
Some cats truly enjoy the scent and taste of cinnamon. For these cats, a small amount of cinnamon on their food or inside a toy (much like a catnip toy) can amuse and delight. Is cinnamon safe for cats? Yes, in small quantities. So, if you have a cat that enjoys cinnamon, use it sparingly.
Cinnamon Bark and Its Dangers
One of the most common problems of any natural remedy is ensuring that you have the right herb. In many cases, cinnamon is confused with cinnamon bark. True cinnamon, that which is found in most spice cabinets, is the inner bark of a small evergreen tree. Cinnamon bark is from the exterior of the plant.
Experts recommend that cinnamon bark not be used in any consumer products for either humans or animals. The bark, oil, and extract are all dangerous. If ingested in even small quantities, the cat could begin vomiting. Your cat may also develop severe liver problems. Cinnamon bark oil could irritate the eyes and even cause blindness. Cinnamon bark should be avoided for the health of your cat.
Cinnamon and Cats
In very small quantities, ground cinnamon is safe enough in cats. Some may even enjoy the taste of a little powdered cinnamon, though most cats seem not to like the odor. Do not allow your cat to ingest more than the smallest amount of cinnamon. In larger quantities, cinnamon may induce vomiting.
Cinnamon, like peppermint and other herbs, can have a variety of effects on cats. Some will find it calming; others will be stimulated. Some will react to cinnamon much in the same way as they will to catnip. There are also those cats who will hate it. You will have to observe your own feline to determine if cinnamon is right for your cat.
However, it is important to remember that cats have a heightened sense of smell. A scent that is pleasant to a person may be overwhelming for a feline. When using cinnamon around your cats, use as little as possible. Many cats hate the scent of cinnamon to the point where it becomes a repellent. In fact, some people use cinnamon as a decent cat repellent.
Cinnamon oil and extract should not be used around cats at any time. Both of these might burn a cat’s delicate skin and could damage mucus membranes around the eyes or in the mouth. Cinnamon oil may also contain a derivative of ASA, or acetylsalicylic acid (a pain reliever sold over the counter under proprietary brand names, including ASPIRIN® brand ASA). ASA is highly toxic to cats.
Some cats truly enjoy the scent and taste of cinnamon. For these cats, a small amount of cinnamon on their food or inside a toy (much like a catnip toy) can amuse and delight. Is cinnamon safe for cats? Yes, in small quantities. So, if you have a cat that enjoys cinnamon, use it sparingly.
Friday, February 17, 2012
Dangers of Flea Infestations to Pets

There are many serious conditions that can be caused by flea infestation. Some of these are easily treated and fall into the category or irritations. Others can lead to serious complications down the road.
Flea Allergy Dermatitis
Some animals, especially cats, are allergic to the saliva of fleas. In this case, your pet may be even more sensitive to fleabites. These poor animals will suffer from acute itching and irritation all over the body. In the case of a large number of fleas, your pet may be so uncomfortable as to become a danger to you and your family, as the stress of flea allergy dermatitis (otherwise known as fleabite hypersensitivity) could make them aggressive. Signs of this condition include: inflamed skin, scabs, hot spots (in both cats and dogs), constant scratching, and unsightly hair loss.
Fleabite Anemia
Flea feed on blood. And many fleas will suck a lot of blood out of your animal companion. If too much blood is lost, your pet may develop anemia. Pets who are very old, very young, or who have chronic health problems are at greater risk of developing this serious condition. Symptoms include; weakness, lethargy, constantly yawning, excessive sleeping, and pale gums. Any animal suffering from these symptoms should be taken to a qualified veterinarian immediately, as fleabite anemia can result in death. Your vet will likely recommend a blood transfusion and iron supplements.
Hemobartonella
In many ways, hemobartonella (otherwise known as feline infectious anemia or feline hemotropic mycoplasmosis) mimics fleabite anemia. However, hemobartonella is actually caused by a parasite that is transmitted by fleas. The only way to overcome this dangerous and often fatal disease is to seek medical assistance as quick as possible.
Tapeworms
Many fleas actually contain the tapeworm larva. A pet, when cleaning himself or simply trying to scratch that persistent itch, may inadvertently swallow one or more of these fleas. The larva is still alive, and begins to grow in the pet’s intestinal tract. Symptoms include diarrhea and small worms found in the stool. The best and more efficient way to treat tapeworms is through medication prescribed by your veterinarian.
Yersina Pestis
This bacterium prefers to live on fleas that attack rodents such as rats and mice. However, fleas are often not that picky. The ‘ratflea’ as it has become known, can sometimes infest dogs, cats, and even people. Yersina Pestis causes a kind of plague that is fatal to approximately half of all cats that contract it. Symptoms include: high fever, lethargy, and unconsciousness. It can be treated with antibiotics, but only if caught in time. It is also possible that this bacterium can be transmitted to both dogs and humans.
Fleas reproduce at an astounding rate and they lay eggs almost constantly. If you detect a flea problem, treat it immediately, ensuring your pets, home, pet beds, and gardens or other exterior areas are all flea-free. There are many ways to eliminate fleas. Your local home improvement store or pet supply store will probably have products to rid your home of fleas. Read the instruction and warning labels thoroughly before using, and ensure you treat your whole home, not simply the infested pet.
Friday, February 10, 2012
Asthma in Pets — Signs and Symptoms
Asthma is a serious respiratory condition that can affect animals as well as people. Generally, asthma is caused when irritants in the air cause some kind of obstruction in the airway. The result is inflammation or constriction of the airway and excessive mucus. Animals, however, lack the ability to describe their symptoms to their owners. Because of this, it is not always easy to tell if your pet has asthma. First, it is important to look at the symptoms displayed by your pet.There are many signs that may indicate an asthmatic response, but as each pet is an individual, they will display individual symptoms. Some pets cough, but this cough often sounds like a hairball cough in cats, and so is often ignored by owners. In general, any signs of respiratory distress may indicate asthma. Serious symptoms might include wheezing, gasping for air through the mouth, or blue gums. If any of these symptoms are present at any time, you should immediately seek medical attention for your pet.
Outside of an emergency situation, if your pet displays any signs of respiratory distress on an ongoing basis, it is possible that your pet has asthma. The best way of coming to a firm diagnosis is to consult your veterinarian, working with him or her to discover the source of your pet’s problems. There is no single symptom for asthma, so your vet will likely have to do a little investigating to arrive at a conclusion. Some of the symptoms of asthma mimic those of other diseases, such as lungworm, respiratory infection, heart disease, heartworm, or even leukemia. Before arriving at a firm diagnosis, your vet will likely want to rule these more serious conditions out.
If other possibilities are eliminated, then your vet may arrive at a diagnosis of asthma. In this case, you will be responsible for treating and controlling your pet’s asthma. There is no cure, but it can be managed effectively with very little effort. There are several asthma medications on the market that your vet can prescribe that may diminish or eliminate the symptoms. Each pet is different, so you may have to try several medications before you find one that works for your animal companion. Even with medication, however, your pet may be prone to occasional asthma attacks.
Preventing asthma attacks isn’t as difficult as it may sound. It is simply a matter of avoiding whatever it is that triggers asthma attacks in your pet. The difficulty comes in identifying these triggers. Almost anything can serve as a trigger, but there are some common possibilities. It would be accurate to say that one of the most common triggers is second hand smoke. Many owners of pets with asthma report that asthma attacks were far less frequent once they stopped smoking around their pet. Other common triggers might include: dust, mold, cat litter, pollen, perfume, air freshener, spices, and even grass. If you can determine what triggers attacks in your pet, you can take steps to eliminate these triggers.
Having a pet diagnosed with asthma can be a frightening experience and is demanding on the owners, at least at first. With a little time, you’ll become proficient at helping your companion and minimizing their discomfort. You’ll also become more knowledgeable about asthma in general. You pet, with proper care and treatment, can live a long and healthy life with only a little effort on your part.
Friday, February 3, 2012
The Musculoskeletal System: The Muscles of the Cat
From the first day a kitten is born and begins to slither towards its mother, it is attempting to control its voluntary muscles. These muscles will eventually allow the kitten to crawl, wobble, stand, walk, and even play with its littermates. The voluntary musclesare sometimes called striped or striated muscles because they exhibit longitudinal stripes. More commonly, they are called skeletal muscles because their chief function is to move the cat's skeleton from place to place. Skeletal muscles, which are secured by tendons and bones, are always arranged in pairs.
To understand how the skeletal muscles work, and why pairs are important, imagine a cat jumping. The cat must crouch down on its heels by contracting two flexor muscles, the hamstring and the tibialis. The hamstring is the muscle located behind the thigh bone while the tibialis is a muscle in front of the tibia and fibula bone. At the same time, the corresponding extensor muscles that were stretched while the hamstring and tibialis were contracting, contract themselves. This powerful contraction of all four muscles propels the cat forward, creating those gravity-defying leaps cats are so famous for.
The involuntary muscles, which are not under conscious control of the cat, are functioning even before the kitten is born. These muscles are known as smooth muscles and are found in the alimentary canal, the urinary tract, and the respiratory system, among other places.
To understand how the skeletal muscles work, and why pairs are important, imagine a cat jumping. The cat must crouch down on its heels by contracting two flexor muscles, the hamstring and the tibialis. The hamstring is the muscle located behind the thigh bone while the tibialis is a muscle in front of the tibia and fibula bone. At the same time, the corresponding extensor muscles that were stretched while the hamstring and tibialis were contracting, contract themselves. This powerful contraction of all four muscles propels the cat forward, creating those gravity-defying leaps cats are so famous for.
The involuntary muscles, which are not under conscious control of the cat, are functioning even before the kitten is born. These muscles are known as smooth muscles and are found in the alimentary canal, the urinary tract, and the respiratory system, among other places.
Friday, January 27, 2012
An Overview of the Design and Function of the Cat
The systems that make up the feline are all rather remarkable. The most important physical systems of the cat include: nervous, endocrine, respiratory, lymphatic, digestive, reproductive, urinary, circulatory, and musculoskeletal.
The nervous system is made up of the cerebrum, cerebellum, midbrain, spinal cord, twelve pair of cranial nerves, and paired sets of peripheral nerves that extend from the spinal cord to all parts of the body. There are many functions governed by the nervous system, including learning, reasoning, memory, and judgment. Involuntary action, which is controlled by the cerebrum, is also considered a part of the nervous system. Blood pressure, respiratory rate, and heart rate are monitored by the midbrain and so also contained within the nervous system.
The endrocine system comprises the glands that secrete hormones into the bloodstream. The most important gland, sometimes referred to as the master gland, is the pituitary, located at the very base of the brain. The pituitary gland, in addition to producing growth-stimulating hormone, controls the activities of the other glands, including the thyroid, adrenal gland, and the testicles or ovaries of the cat. In turn, these glands control the activities of the body.
The respiratory system includes the nose, throat, larynx (voice box), trachea (windpipe), bronchial tubes, and lungs. This system is vitally important to the cat as a cat at rest completes 25 to 30 breaths a minute. This is approximately twice as many as a human completes. In the cat, inhaling takes about half as long as exhaling.
The lymphatic system is one of the main defenses of the cat's body. It is a network of vessels that transport lymph, which is made up up excess tissue fluids, protein, and other substances. This system functions without the benefit of a pump and carries out its mission through the venous side of the circulatory system. Lymph nodes, another important component of the lymphatic system, filter out foreign particles found throughout the body. Lymph nodes contain lymphocytes, a types of white blood cell, which produce antibodies that neutralize bacterial poisons.
The digestive system comprises the mouth, teeth, esophagus, stomach, small and large intestines, liver, pancreas, and rectum. Of all the carnivores, cats have the fewest number of teeth, barely 30. These teeth were not made for chewing, but rather for killing prey ad tearing their flesh. Therefore, cats tear off chunks of food and swallow them whole.
The kidneys, ureters, bladder, and urethra make up with urinary or excretory system in both sexes. Closely related to the urinary system is the reproductive system. The testicles and sperm ducts comprise the male reproductive system with the fallopian tubes, uterus, womb, and vagina are part of the female reproductive system.
The other systems mentioned here, such as the circulatory and musculoskeletal, are complex systems deserving of elaboration. The musculoskeletal systems is the bedrock of conformation and body type at its most elementary. The circulatory system is the medium through which many of the body's other systems function. However, the details of these two systems are deserving of their own articles and will be covered in detail in coming weeks.
The nervous system is made up of the cerebrum, cerebellum, midbrain, spinal cord, twelve pair of cranial nerves, and paired sets of peripheral nerves that extend from the spinal cord to all parts of the body. There are many functions governed by the nervous system, including learning, reasoning, memory, and judgment. Involuntary action, which is controlled by the cerebrum, is also considered a part of the nervous system. Blood pressure, respiratory rate, and heart rate are monitored by the midbrain and so also contained within the nervous system.
The endrocine system comprises the glands that secrete hormones into the bloodstream. The most important gland, sometimes referred to as the master gland, is the pituitary, located at the very base of the brain. The pituitary gland, in addition to producing growth-stimulating hormone, controls the activities of the other glands, including the thyroid, adrenal gland, and the testicles or ovaries of the cat. In turn, these glands control the activities of the body.
The respiratory system includes the nose, throat, larynx (voice box), trachea (windpipe), bronchial tubes, and lungs. This system is vitally important to the cat as a cat at rest completes 25 to 30 breaths a minute. This is approximately twice as many as a human completes. In the cat, inhaling takes about half as long as exhaling.
The lymphatic system is one of the main defenses of the cat's body. It is a network of vessels that transport lymph, which is made up up excess tissue fluids, protein, and other substances. This system functions without the benefit of a pump and carries out its mission through the venous side of the circulatory system. Lymph nodes, another important component of the lymphatic system, filter out foreign particles found throughout the body. Lymph nodes contain lymphocytes, a types of white blood cell, which produce antibodies that neutralize bacterial poisons.
The digestive system comprises the mouth, teeth, esophagus, stomach, small and large intestines, liver, pancreas, and rectum. Of all the carnivores, cats have the fewest number of teeth, barely 30. These teeth were not made for chewing, but rather for killing prey ad tearing their flesh. Therefore, cats tear off chunks of food and swallow them whole.
The kidneys, ureters, bladder, and urethra make up with urinary or excretory system in both sexes. Closely related to the urinary system is the reproductive system. The testicles and sperm ducts comprise the male reproductive system with the fallopian tubes, uterus, womb, and vagina are part of the female reproductive system.
The other systems mentioned here, such as the circulatory and musculoskeletal, are complex systems deserving of elaboration. The musculoskeletal systems is the bedrock of conformation and body type at its most elementary. The circulatory system is the medium through which many of the body's other systems function. However, the details of these two systems are deserving of their own articles and will be covered in detail in coming weeks.
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